Exeter Living
Restaurant Reviews
Mill End Hotel
Dartmoor National Park,
Chagford
Tel: 01647 432282
www.millendhotel.com
We visited: Thursday night
Prices: Two courses £28. Three courses £38. Coffee and petits fours £3.50
Vegetarian choice: Very slim, but fine if you eat fish
Wine list: Very impressive
Service and atmosphere: Excellent, formal yet delightfully relaxed
“The cheese was fantastic – a tribute (as was all the food served) to Devon’s wealth of local produce. Jay Allen is the head chef and local to Exeter, and I am in no doubt, after eating his food, that he could become as well known as another local chef, Michael Caines.”
Exeter Phonenix Café Bar
Bradninch Place
Exeter
Tel: 01392 667062
www.exeterphoenix.org.uk
Opening hours: Mon – Fri 11.30 am-3pm, 5.30-9pm, Sat 11.30am-9pm, Sun 12-4pm.
We visited: Wednesday lunchtime.
Prices: Wide choice of dishes from £5.95.
Vegetarian choice: Excellent.
Disabled access: Good.
Service and atmosphere: Friendly service and busy, bustling atmosphere. There are live sets from local DJs, acoustic artists and singer songwriters every Sunday.
"Well happily, for those of us in Exeter at least, I think I’ve found the perfect solution to the lunchtime conundrum: the Café Bar at the Exeter Phoenix. I know this may seem a little odd, perhaps a touch out of left field as the Yanks have it, the Phoenix being known more for avant garde exhibitions, trendy bands and the latest plays than for grub, but bear with me, for this is something of a hidden gem."
The Fat Pig,
John Street,
Exeter,
Tel: 01392 437217
www.fatpig-exeter.co.uk
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 11.30am-3pm, 5-11.30pm, Sun 12-3am, 5-10.30pm
We visited: Wednesday lunchtime.
Prices: Starters £5.25-£6.95. Mains £10.25-£14.95, but the menu changes from day to day.
Vegetarian choice: Very good, a couple of choices per course.
Disabled access: Good.
Wine list: Excellent.
Service and atmosphere: Top rate.
‘As I knocked back the post-lunch espresso (actually two espressos: the coffee was so good I had to go back for more) I divided my time between the paper, chatting to the landlord and ear wigging on the conversation of the other diners. It turned out that the table next to me was full of chefs on their day off enjoying a bit of a bus-man’s holiday, and not one of them had a bad thing to say about the food. Praise from your peers, particularly when it’s completely independent, as this was, is as good as it gets…’
The Oddfellows,
37 New North Road,
Exeter,
Tel: 01392 209050
www.oddfellowsbar.co.uk
Opening Hours: Lunch; 12-3pm. Dinner; 5.30-9pm Sun-Tues, 5.30-10pm Fri-Sat.
We visited: Tuesday lunchtime.
Prices: Lunches £3.95-£8.50. Starters £3.95 - £5.50. Mains £7.75-£12.95.
Vegetarian Choice: Good, at least one choice in each part of the menu.
Disabled access: Good.
Service and atmosphere: Laid-back, gastro-pub atmosphere, great for both a decent meal or a quick snack. Really good service.
Reviewed: Issue 59
Published: September
The Conservatory
18 North Street
Exeter EX4 3QS
Tel: 01392 273858
www.theconservatory.co.uk
"It is the sort of place that immediately puts you at your ease"
Opening hours: Tues – Sat: 12 noon– 2pm, 5.30pm – 11pm. Last orders 9pm.
We visited: Tuesday evening
Vegetarian choice: Good
Evening menu: Starters from £4.25, mains from £9.95, desserts £5.50. Two-course options at £13.95 available for lunch (12pm – 2pm) and Early Bird Dinner (5.30 – 6.45pm).
Children: Welcome
Disabled access: Downstairs dining area.
Gratuities At customer’s discretion but 10% service charge for tables of 7 or more.
Reviewed: Issue 58
Published: August
Issue 57 - Here in Devon we have some of the freshest, finest seafood available right on our doorsteps. So we’ve decided to celebrate the sea’s bounty with three tasty fsh dishes that are perfect for summer dining.
Here's a taster (!)...
Baked sea bass with lime and lemongrass
Whole sea bass slashed and brushed with a green Tabasco baste, stuffed with garlic, lemongrass, ginger and lime slices and baked in the oven.
Serves 2
For the baste:
1 tbsp lime juice
1 ½ tbsp sunfower oil
1 tbsp green Tabasco
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 sea bass, 1½oz (or two medium mackerel) cleaned
1 lime, in thin slices
1in ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
2 spring onions, trimmed and cut on the slant
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
½ stick lemongrass, crushed and thinly sliced into rounds
2 extra sticks lemongrass sliced lengthways
Pea shots for decoration
1. Mix baste ingredients together.
2. Season the cavity of the fish with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Slash the fish on both sides. Brush with baste on both sides and leave covered with clingflm in the fridge for 20 minutes.
3. Remove from fridge and stuff with garlic, lemongrass, ginger, spring onions and lime slices.
4. Preheat the oven to Gas 6/400F/200C.
5. Place remaining lemongrass on a baking sheet and sit fish on top. Brush again with baste.
6. Bake for 15 minutes, or until fish is cooked through.
7. Serve immediately on a platter decorated with pea shoots. Baked sea bass with lime and lemongrass. Whole sea bass slashed and brushed with a green Tabasco baste, stuffed with garlic, lemongrass, ginger and lime slices and baked in the oven.
The Digger’s Rest
Woodbury Salterton
Exeter
tel: 01395 232375
www.diggersrest.co.uk
"Inside, the fishcake was an absolute revelation"
Opening hours: Lunch: midday-2pm. Dinner: 6.30pm-9.30pm
We visited: Wednesday lunchtime
Vegetarian choice: Good
Prices: Light bites: £4.75-£9.75. Main course: £8.95-£15.95
Disabled access: A wheelchair access ramp is available.
Extra information: All the ingredients used are sourced from local suppliers. The fish is from Brixton and Looe, the pork from east Devon and the beef is from Devon Ruby Red cattle.
Reviewed: Issue 56
Published: June / July
The Quay Brasserie
6 Topsham Quay
Topsham
EX3 0JB
tel: 01392 876123
www.thequaybrasserie.com
OUR VERDICT
Is Topsham the new Morlaix? With cooking like this it certainly could be. Wonderfully prepared French food served in a quirky and welcoming environment, with the beautiful estuary right on the doorstep
Opening hours: Tues-Sun, 10am-11.30pm; last orders 9.45pm
We visited: Friday evening
Vegetarian choice: Good
Prices: Evening menu: starters from £4.95, mains from £11.95, desserts all £5.50. Specialised grill menu from £11.95. A la carte and grill also served throughout the day along with varied lunch menu. Coffee, snacks and soft drinks available all day
Children: Welcome. Special children’s menu
Disabled access: Good
Service charge: 10% charge added to bill
Extra information: Sunny alfresco dining terrace
Reviewed: Issue 55, Exeter Living
Published: June 13
La BoCa
St. Olave’s Close,
Mary Arches Street,
Exeter
tel: 01392 427524
Clare Blake is spellbound by Moroccan magic and mystery at La BoCa. Authentic Moroccan cuisine, well cooked using good ingredients, in a wonderfully atmospheric restaurant. You just have to keep reminding yourself that you’re in Exeter, not Casablanca.
“It is as if you have been transported to another world”
El Hamra Restaurant: Lunches and evening meals including six mezzas and bottle of house wine for £30;
Hareem Restaurant: more intimate venue ideal for parties e.g. Sultan’s Banquet including belly dancing from £14.95 per person;
Latino1/4: South American grill and carvery from £13.95;
Club Maroc: Late night lounge/cocktail bar with live music from residential DJs.
Opening hours; Mon - Sat: 11am until late; Sun: 5pm until late
Vegetarian choice: Good
Prices: Mezza from £3.75. Main dishes from £9.95. Desserts from £3.50
Children: Welcome
Disabled access: Good
Reviewed: Issue 53 Exeter Living
Published: May 2
FoodeaZe
St. George’s Hall
George Street, Exeter
tel: 01392 269590
(Entrances opposite BHS and next to Exeter Corn Exchange)
Fast food, but not as we know it: Clare Blake discovers a refreshingly honest dining experience at FoodeaZe.
OUR VERDICT
It may not be hugely smart, but FoodeaZe certainly does have some excellent food at remarkably low prices. A great place for lunch when out shopping, or even for a working lunch.
Opening hours; Mon–Wed, 8am–6pm; Thurs–Sat, 8am–8pm; Sundays 10am–4pm
We visited: Saturday lunchtime
Vegetarian choice: Good
Prices: Main courses from £4.95. Freshly baked pastries, cakes etc from 65p
Children: Welcome
Disabled access: Lift at entrance opposite BHS
Reviewed: Issue 52 Exeter Living
Published: April 11
The Drewe Arms
Broadhembury
EX14 3NF
tel: 01404 841267
Joe Woodward regrets a lost opportunity at a fish-lovers mecca, and offers up a salutary tale. “Vics’ huge salmon fillet was an unqualified success”
Opening hours: Monday-Saturday. Lunch 12noon-2pm. Dinner 7pm-9pm. Sunday 12noon-2pm
We visited: Monday lunchtime
Price: Starters £7-£8.50. Mains £12-£25. Puddings £5.65
Service: Not included
Vegetarian choices: None on menu
Disabled access: Good
Reviewed: Issue 51 Exeter Living
Published: March 20
Oliva
6-7 Fore Street
Topsham
Devon
Tel; 01392 877878
www.olivarestaurant.co.uk
After a number of dead ends, Clare Blake discovers a sunshine eating experience at Oliva. “The adjoining terrace is ideal for more informal dining”
Opening hours: Mon and Tues, 6.30pm–late. Wed–Sat, lunch 12pm–2pm, dinner 6.30pm–late
We visited: Saturday evening
Price: Lunchtime set menu: two courses £11.95, 3 courses £15.45; evening menu: starters from £5.95, main courses from £12.95, desserts from £4.95; Thursday Night Tapas Special: 4 tapas £14.95, 6 tapas £18.95; Tuesday Night Paella for two plus two glasses of house wine £24.95
Vegetarian choice: Good
Children: Welcome
Service charge: Not included
Disabled access: Good
Reviewed: Issue 50 Exeter Living
Published: Feb 29
The Rock Inn
Haytor Vale
TQ13 9XP
tel: 01364 661305
www.rock-inn.co.uk
Our conclusion: Joe Woodward drives away the bad dreams at a renowned Dartmoor pub.
A very smart country pub, with a delightful air of olde worlde charm. Its reputation as a foodie haunt is well deserved, with good, locally sourced ingredients solidly cooked. The perfect place for a post-walk bite to eat. “This was a pudding above all other puddings”
Open: 12noon-2pm. Dinner 7-9.30pm
We visited: Wednesday lunchtime
Price: Lunch. Starters £4.50-£7.50. Main £8.50-£14.95. Puddings £4.95. Dinner, two courses £16, three courses £21
Service: Not included
Reviewed: Issue 49 Exeter Living
Published: February 8
The Masons Arms
Branscombe
tel: 01297 680300
www.masonsarms.co.uk
Our conclusion: A windswept Joe Woodward checks out the credentials of an award-winning east Devon pub. “I have to say I was impressed Excellent food, reasonably priced, ideal for either a pub lunch or a smart meal out”
Opening hours: Lunch 12noon-2pm. Dinner 7-9pm
We visited: Tuesday lunchtime
Prices: Bar menu: Starters £3.50-£6.50, Mains £9.95-£14.50, Puddings £5-£6.50
Service charge: Not included
Disabled access: Good
Reviewed: Issue 48 Exeter Living
Published: January 18
Rendezvous 10 Wine Bar
38-49 Southernhay East
Exeter
Tel: 01392 270222
www.winebar10.co.uk
Our conclusion: Feeling maudlin and a little bit Russian, Joe Woodward goes in search of a fine meal to brighten his day. Excellent local produce well cooked and very reasonably prices. Excellent service.
Opening hours: Monday-Saturday 12noon till late
We visited: Wednesday lunchtime
Vegetarian choice: One veggie choice per course
Price: Lunch: Bar snacks £1.50, Starters £3.90-£4.90. Mains £7.90-£8.90. Puddings £3.90-£5.50. Two courses for £10.90
Service charge: Not included
Reviewed: Issue 47 Exeter Living
Published: December 28
